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Jack Martin

Colourist based in California who excels at platinum tones. Among his clientele are Jane Fonda and renowned personalities.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I swear by a microfibre towel, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to remove moisture from your strands. It's often overlooked how much stress a standard towel can do, especially to silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another affordable staple is a wide-tooth comb, to use during washing. It shields your locks while detangling and helps preserve the strength of the individual hairs, especially after lightening.

Which investment truly pays off?

A high-quality styling iron – made with advanced materials, with adjustable temperature options. Grey and blonde hair can become discolored or suffer heat stress without the right iron.

What style or process should you always avoid?

Self-applied color lifting. Internet videos often simplify it, but the actual fact is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals cause irreversible harm, break it off or end up with uneven tones that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I also don’t recommend long-term smoothing services on color-treated or grey hair. These chemical systems are often excessively strong for already fragile strands and can cause chronic issues or color changes.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their particular strand characteristics. Certain clients overapply toning shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks flat and dull. Others rely too much on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. A further common mistake is thermal styling minus a barrier. In cases where you employ styling appliances without a defensive spray or cream, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. For direct application, minoxidil is highly proven. I also recommend scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to stimulate circulation and aid in hair growth. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps eliminate impurities and allows treatments to work more effectively. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown positive outcomes. They work internally to benefit externally by balancing body chemistry, tension and lack of vital nutrients.

For people looking for something more advanced, PRP therapy – where a personalized serum is applied – can be beneficial. That said, I always suggest seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Follicle Expert and brand president of Philip Kingsley services and items for shedding.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will snip damaged ends myself bi-weekly to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

What affordable find is essential?

Building fibers are remarkably effective if you have thinning spots. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it seamlessly blended. I used it myself in the postpartum period when I had a lot of hair fall – and also presently during some considerable hair loss after having awful flu a few months ago. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the initial area to show decline when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. When dealing with temporary hair loss, known as TE, buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the optimal outcomes. In my opinion, minoxidil compounded with other hair-supportive actives – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It doesn’t work. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Also, high-dose biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What blunder stands out often?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. Many individuals refrain from cleansing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. When sebum remains on the skin, they break down and become inflammatory.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a careful compromise. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it is unlikely to cause damage.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. It's backed by strong research and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will clear up naturally. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus